Star Trek, Metal LSR 12mm or LED Phaser Nozzle, Mid Grade for Sale

Star Trek, Metal LSR 12mm or LED Phaser Nozzle, Mid Grade For Sale

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Star Trek, Metal LSR 12mm or LED Phaser Nozzle, Mid Grade:
$29.99

In general: all parts are shipped with the machine finish as shown in the LISTING PHOTOS. Final finishing is by the Buyer (prop maker) and may include whatever; polishing, graining, distressing, acid washes, electroplating, and other treatments as selected and executed by the Buyer. Most parts will have some cosmetic blemishes that the Buyer may/may-not want to remove or enhance. Thank You.
Museum Grade Reproduction, 12mm LSR or LED Ready, fits all types of TOS Phasers
Star Trek Aluminum Alloy Nozzle, 12mm LSR or LED Ready, for all types and brands of P2 Phaser bodies, (acrylic-emitter/12mm LSR not included)PRICE IS FOR EACH ALUMINUM NOZZLE; THE MACHINE MARKS ON THE KNURL FLAT AREAS ARE NOW IDENTICAL TO THE SET USED WCM NOZZLE.

NO Phaser prop part of sale, just the metal Nozzle.

About The WCM photos: The two photos marked West Coast Collector (WCM) Mid Grade are of a Set Used 1960s Star Trek TOS Phaser.

Fits everything. Art Asylum retrofit how-to-pictures shown for your pleasure, Phaser and other items not included. You do all Fitting.

Gorgeous, Jewelry like finish, turned 6063-T5 Aluminum Alloy (British HE9), not hard anodized: ready for 12mm 12mm LSR module or traditional light bulb installation.

This Aluminum Nozzle Mid-Grade replica is a one part design (no ratchet effect) extensively prototyped and engineered & re-engineered by me to allow a quick retrofit to AA and DS Type II Phaser TOS shells (and all others), while being the most efficient combined heat-sink & heat-dissipator possible when used with a standard 12 mm diameter 12mm LSR module.

NEW 12mm LSR BORES 3X Q.C. CHECKED FOR MINIMUM DIAMETER SIZE to insure every 12mm LSR module slips-right-in.

I also have this item listed with a prop-stud back for ¼ inch hole mount. Visit my store.

The aluminum is NOT HARD ANODIZED and is of a more workable alloy type than others on the market. Why?, I used a special 6063-T5 un-anodized aluminum because it is workable by a prop builder.

Working It: Put a wood ½ inch dowel in a drill, sand THE DOWEL down to for the 31/64 hole diameter, mount the part, and you have a mini-lathe to; file, grain, polish, and do what you like, to this part.

Nozzle Size & Details: see listing pictures; overall length is 1.74" (math error in image).

Mounting Hole Dimension: Split-style shell or other detail by you; 0.600" diameter shaft hole, 0.800 inch diameter interior collar. Some builders use a 0.800" hole in a non-split-shell and retain the nozzle with a hand cut sheet metal horse-shoe shape retainer, using a U shape 5/8 inch diameter cut-out in a small rectangular piece of thin metal (0.016” thick).

Compatible With: Everything, remember you're the prop builder !

Acrylic Emitter (not provided in this sale): Accepts standard 5/16 aftermarket emitter, or visit my store as I sell emitters too. You're the prop builder !

Acrylic Emitter Fit (not provided in this sale): The aluminum has a hole 0.310 inch for the acrylic.

12mm LSR Module Size: Fits standard 12 mm diameter modules of both full or half length (use the full length ones). Modules available on from seller DTR-LPF.

I SUGGEST YOU ORDER 12mm LSR MODULES WITHOUT CHROME FOCUS RINGS FOR EASE OF INSTALLATION, THESE COIN-EDGE CHROME RINGS ALSO CAN BE TAKEN OFF BY YOU. You're the prop builder !

12mm LSR Module Cavity Nominal: 12.00 mm to 12.02 mm (31/64 approx.) diameter.

How Accurate Is This Midgrade Style Nozzle? You can be the judge of that by researching screen shots from the 1960’s. When comparing this Nozzle to episode “screen images” it can be quickly noticed it matches what was used on-set more often than any other nozzle currently produced for prop makers. Most importantly this reproduced prop nozzle is made a softer un-anodized aluminum, just like the originals.

You get the Nozzle you see in the photographs, but ask questions anyway…..live long and question..

My LSE Module Adjustment and Install suggestion is as follows:This is a suggestion and you are the prop maker responsible for the result, aka not me.
1. LSR Module; remove chrome focus ring from brass-lens-assembly and discard chrome ring only (don't lose the brass lens assembly and related backing-spring).1a. Remember all beams are rectangular (not round).2. Mount LSR Module in a heat-sinking fixture and refocus the now Unfocused lens so the beam is tight.3. I use a $5 aluminum fixture from AiXiz on , mount the heat-sink fixture on a cigar-box with; a switch and battery-power sled.4. Focus at 10 to 20 feet away, wearing safety goggles, so one can observe when the beam-spot appears "tight" on the wall surface.4a. I use a razor (module-off) to turn the brass-lens-assembly as the focus ring was removed in Step One.5. Once focused; Mark the back of the module with a sharpie to indicate the horizontal orientation of the rectangular beam.5a. Consider a drop of Loc-Tight Light (get it on ) on the brass lens assembly to keep it locked in place. Remove excess with Q-Tip.6. Caution, the modules get hot so flip-on & flip-off just long enough to observe the beam spot on the wall.7. Instal the acrylic emitter perfectly square and aligned in the aluminum nozzle.8. A 12mm aluminum rod, with a groove filed at last 1 1/2 inches on the LONG side, makes a great emitter fixture, get the rod on .9. The groove releases any suction that occurs from the vaseline and the post the EPOXY setting of the acrylic emitter.10. NOTE: Groove is very important in 12mm aluminum rod.11. Prior to using this rod-fixture with acrylic emitter and epoxy; coat with vaseline as a glue bond-breaker or the rod will get glued to the aluminum emitter.12. Secure the vaseline coated 12mm rod in a vise LEVEL ALL WAYS, next slide the aluminum nozzle onto the rod, now coat the interior of the aluminum-nozzle emitter hole lightly with epoxy and slide in the emitter giving it a gentle twist (JUST ONE TWIST) to spread the epoxy evenly. Check for alignment and squareness. 12a. After the epoxy sets a few hours; check to see the hole is 100% clear; if not clean out from back with a 5/32 inch drill bit, but by hand (no power tools this step).13. Install the module in the nozzle so the sharpie-line is in-line with the set-screw securement hole (you must tap the pre drilled hole and provide the No. 8-32 set screw).14. Snug the set-screw (not gorilla tight).15. If you observe Splash (splash is the beam coming out straight BUT ALSO bouncing off the interior-wall or the emitter hole) the tips of exacto blades make good shims just insert and snap-off AND YOU CAN usually get the splash to go away.
If results are not good the problems are most likely; (1) focus LSR module chrome focus ring was not removed, (2) 12mm LSR module is too far back in aluminum nozzle as; the focus ring is in-the-way OR, the module is out-of-tolerance and, or the acrylic emitter is glued-in too far back and lastly, (3) the acrylic was installed a little crooked. Troubleshoot and try try again.

CLICK FOR 12mm LSR SHOP DTR-LPF

CLICK; EXPLODED PHASER 12mm LSR SLIDESHOW; YOUTUBE VIDEO

CLICK; AA/DS PHASER-12mm LSR HOW-TO; YOUTUBE VIDEO

CLICK; TOS-PHASER FIN FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO

CLICK; TOS-PHASER SIDE-RAIL FINISHING; YOUTUBE VIDEO

Some Star Trek Prop History For Inquiring Minds:

Most of these Prop Makers and Technicians have passed-on.

Below are old-timer accounts of convention conversations before conventions were really a fad. (all these are therefore 2nd hand stories)

The persons quoted worked for; Desilu and NBC™®, Gene R., and later Paramount™®, (today known as “Paramount +” ™® and CBS ™®).

Mr. Greg Jein was a very well known Star Trek TOS prop collector and authority (born October 31, 1945 in Los Angeles, USA; died May 22, 2022 in Los Angeles). He had personal friendships with all the listed Star Trek TOS production prop craftsmen (Bob Stone, James Rugg, Richard Heimer, John Dwyer, and Mr. Ruck).

Greg was an acquaintance of mine (Jon-Paul L), and generously took the time to meet me in California on several occasions, beginning in 2018 right through 2021. He shall be missed.

Mr. Jein was a filming model designer who, starting in the 1970s’, created miniatures for use in the special effects portions of many films and television series. Mr. Jein was nominated for an Academy Award for Best Visual Effects for “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” (1977) and, nominated for an Outstanding Special Visual Effects Emmy for “Angels in America” (1979).

In the 1970s’ Greg worked onTV productions such as “Wonder Woman”, and “The UFO Incident”. Jein then went on to work on Spielberg's film “1941”, where he and his team constructed a number of models including a twelve-foot model of the Ferris wheel that's dislodged from its mount and rolls down the pier and into the water. For their work on “1941” Jein, William A. Fraker and A. D. Flowers were again nominated for an Academy Award for Best Visual Effects.

Then in the 1980’s Greg Jein was invited to work on “Star Trek: The Motion Picture” building planetary models for Spock's spacewalk scene and the interior of the V'Ger craft. Jein continued his association with Star Trek Films, building alien weapons for: “Star Trek V The Final Frontier”, Starfleet helmets for the assassination scene in “Star Trek VI The Undiscovered Country”. In 1986 for “Star Trek The Next Generation” Jein and a team at Industrial Light & Magic (ALM) built the original six-foot model of the USS Enterprise (NCC-1701-D), the Ferengi Marauder starship and, the Klingon Vor'cha.

BACK TO STAR TREK TOS 1966 THRU 1969

Mr. Bob Stone was Star Trek's machinist and made all the metal prop parts for all three seasons of the show. Parts were made to order for each episode as in those times (the 1960’s) as machining was done by hand and there was no advantage to making short runs (and no studio funding either). Each episode had a specific budget. Speaking of budgets, Bob relied on his Star Trek friend Robert Archer (VP of Budgeting for the show) in getting a little leeway on the $ so he could do the best possible job. According to Bob there was no magic drum of Phaser Nozzles and every job was a mad-dash to meet the filming deadlines.

Because parts were made only to order, parts varied quite a bit. These variations can be seen in all the surviving examples of TOS hand props from Phaser to Communicators and Tricorders. Sometimes it was not that a new design was needed but rather that when one Wings it from a sketch, in a hurry using what is on-hand, you get an unintended-new-version of something (in the 1960’s the TV audience never could see that).

Robert Archer and Bob Stone worked closely together so when the show was canceled suddenly in season three, Robert Archer ended up with a nice collection of hand props.

Richard Heimer made the molds for hand props. He also did all the casting and forming. This included; Vacuum form bucks, Fiberglass molds and urethane molds. Again, according to him most work is done in the normal Hollywood maddening rush. He shared with his convention friends that there were many molds made from molds when the production schedule demanded this. He also shared that when the show ended he rescued the molds from being discarded by putting them in his garage.

James Ruggs (b. 1919) was the director of special effects for the show. He handled and repaired many of the props on-set. When the show was canceled in season three he rescued many hand props and even some models from the scrap heap. Dick Ruben, Prop & Art Assistant on the show, got his Set-Used Klingon disruptor from James. Mr. Ruggs held on to his rather large Star Trek collection for many years. It is widely known that Greg Jein got his Holy-Grail Hero Phaser from James.

In closing a nod to Mr. Ruck, a prop technician, who reported that he repaired some hand props hundreds of times as they were often damaged during filming. He had also shared that the fiberglass Mid-Grade’s, and some other props often used basswood strips between the seams to establish uniform dimensions. Watch some YouTube Star Trek TOS bloopers to see what he was talking about when it comes to repairs and hand props flying apart.

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